Favre Leuba Chief Chronograph

Quick specs Favre Leuba Chief Chronograph
Price: $ 4,725 | € 4.300 | approx. £ 4,000 | CHF 4’300 (rubber)
Size: 41 mm
Reference:
00.20101.113.01.200 (black bracelet)
00.20101.113.01.301 (black rubber)
00.20101.113.02.200 (blue bracelet)
00.20101.113.02.302 (blue rubber)
00.20101.113.04.200 (ice blue bracelet)
00.20101.113.04.304 (ice blue rubber)

The name “Chief” is revived, just like the brand itself, leading to this Favre Leuba Chief Chronograph. Back in the 1950s the brand had a Sea Chief model, a round-ish classic three-hander with or without date in many forms and colors.

The first cushion-shaped model by the brand, as far as we could find, is the Water Deep from 1960. At the end of the 1960s they launch another Chief. It is the Sky Chief which is an almost square model. Then in 1970 the Favre-Leuba Chrono Valjoux 23 appears…

New Chief models inspired by the Chrono Valjoux 23

The Favre-Leuba Chrono Valjoux 23, with reference 30233, is a bi-compax chronograph (caliber Valjoux 23 of course) with regatta timer scale on one of the sub dials. We’ve seen examples in white, blue, grey and black. Although the grey might be faded black. It has an almost square-shaped case with a diameter of 35 millimeters. This specific model forms the inspiration for the new Chief models.

It’s worth mentioning that somewhere in the 2010s, when the brand is under the umbrella of Titan Company, working with the Indian retailer Ethos, a new Sky Chief is launched. A round-shaped model with prominent lugs that gives the impression of a (small) cushion-shaped profile. It’s still for sale at Ethos. Probably because they own the brand nowadays. Which you can read in the summary of the history of Favre-Leuba (with hyphen).

Blend of heritage

Now, in 2024, with the “great reset” of the brand, the name “Chief” makes its comeback again with two prominent cushion-shaped models. This Chief Chronograph and the Chief Date. So, the design is a blend of the heritage of Favre-Leuba, today renamed as Favre Leuba. With a sporty cushion-case, not too big with 41 millimeters, in stainless steel.

The bi-compax chronograph layout is still there, and some elements on the dial are still the same: the logo under the central axis and a tachymeter scale that runs up to 700 kilometers per hour. Other vintage features are the double hour marker at the 12 o’clock position and the shape of the knurled crown.

The Favre Leuba Chief Chronograph has a power reserve of 60 hours

The movement of the Favre Leuba Chief Chronograph is the La Joux-Perret caliber L113, type A022. Which is the top grade version of this caliber, with Côtes de Genéve finish, blued screws and for this watch a custom skeletonized rotor. This is executed in 4N PVD with engraved monogram and text, soleillage and Colimmaçon finish (a snailing or spiral effect).

This Chief comes on a integrated FKM rubber strap, meaning “Fluorine Kautschuk Material”, a more durable and long-lasting type of rubber. This is closed with a butterfly clasp with engraved logo. You can also go for the integrated two-link steel bracelet, which adds about 25 to 50 to the price.

Want to see more new watches by the revived brand? Check our Favre Leuba section.