H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit & Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit

Quick specs H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit & Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit
Price: $ 64,900 | approx. € 63.000 | approx. £ 53,000 | CHF 59’000
Size: 42 mm or 38.5 mm
Reference:
1800-1200 (Endeavour)
03PFB (03SERIES) – limited to 100 pairs

If you like to categorize stuff as we do on this site, describing the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit and the Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit is confusing. As for about 50 to 65k you will get two watches that look like each other because of the colors, but they differ a lot.

The colors are taken from the maracuja, also known as passion fruit. Here the purple variant that has a purple skin and kind of marbled yellow-ish flesh inside. This “passiflora edulis” in Latin is a vine species of passionflower with origins in South America.

What or who is Studio Underd0g?

Both models, the Endeavour and the 03SERIES, are limited to 100 pieces, and a collaboration between H. Moser & Cie. and Studio Underd0g. Yup, with a zero. Studio Underd0g is a new (2021) watchmaking company “modern style” with a simple website, no address and people with only a first name.

They are based in the UK; their watches have the “assembled in Great Britain” stamp on the dial. And they create cool and colorful watches with solid Swiss movements. One of their lines is the 03SERIES, which is used for the H. Moser & Cie. reference 03PFB. Now, let’s look at the two models.

The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit

First, we start with Moser’s “own” model, the Endeavour. It’s a 42-millimeter stainless steel perpetual calendar, with a big date at 3 o’clock. The months are indicated by the small green arrow-shaped central hand, possibly starting with January at the 1 o’clock position. So, June is at 6, September at 9 and December at 12. It’s very hard to read but once your brain simply connects 10 o’clock with the 10th month, it’s easy. The leap year cycle indicator is located at the back.

The small seconds are at the 6 o’clock position, the power reserve indicator is at 9. The dial itself consists of two plates to form the passion fruit colors. The first is a purple lacquered main plate with sunburst pattern. On top of that is a maracuja fumé Grand Feu enamel dial with hammered texture. This has an 18-carat yellow gold base, polished and rhodium plated edge and cut-out shapes for the date, small seconds and power reserve.

Movement of the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit

The movement of the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit is the hand-wound H. Moser & Cie caliber HMC 800. Thanks to two barrels combined with a low beat it has a massive power reserve of 168 hours, or 7 days.

This in-house movement has an interchangeable Moser escapement and a so called Straumann hairspring. Which is a special high-precision hairspring developed in the 1930s by the Swiss watchmaker Reinhold Straumann. Furthermore, the pallet fork and escapement wheel are from gold and the movement and components are hand-finished and decorated.

The Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit chronograph

The second model of this passion fruit set is the 03SERIES, a model that comes from Studio Underd0g. It is a mono-pusher chronograph, here with a “coarse degrade” amber dial. So, a roughly grained amber colored dial with gradient color shift. This is the top dial; underneath lays a Royal Purple colored dial with radial brush. Together they form the passion fruits colors.

The flange of the dial has a tachymeter scale, at the 3 o’clock position is the chronograph’s 30-minute totalizer. Then at 9 o’clock on a circular amber sub dial are the small seconds. And both the central chronograph seconds hands and the 30-minute hand have a green tip.

Movement of the H. Moser & Cie. Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit chronograph

Inside the H. Moser & Cie. Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit runs the Sellita caliber SW510 M MP b. Which is a hand-wound cam operated mono-pusher chronograph with a power reserve of 63 hours.

Both passion fruit colored hand-winders come on a black strap. Black alligator leather for the Endeavour and hand stitched black epsom calfskin leather by The Strap Tailor for the 03SERIES. And both watches also have sapphire case back to admire the movements and they come in one box to admire them both on your mantelshelf.