A new McLaren means a new watch, this is the Richard Mille RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph McLaren W1
Carbon, symbolized by ‘C’ on the periodic table, and atomic number 6, is a fundamental element renowned for its versatility. In general, it serves as a cornerstone for life and is widely abundant throughout the universe.
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What makes it unique is its remarkable bonding capability with other elements, particularly itself, leading to the formation of diverse structures. In the realm of watches, it also plays a fascinating role.
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Carbon and watchmaking
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Carbon finds its way into watchmaking through various forms, each offering distinct properties. Carbon fiber, for instance, known for its lightweight and robust nature, is often used in crafting watch cases and straps, enhancing durability without compromising style.
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Another form, carbon nanotubes, with their exceptional strength and conductivity, contributes to the development of advanced watch technologies, such as in creating highly precise sensors or improving battery performance.
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Lightness is the most important aspect
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Sure, the robustness is an important aspect to use carbon for the case of a watch. But lightness is an even more important aspect. Big and bold watches, often with a lot of tech inside, can be very heavy. The use of carbon helps to reduce weight.
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In essence, in watchmaking it encapsulates both tradition and progress, blending craftsmanship with cutting-edge innovation. Its significance underscores the technical advancements within the industry.
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Hardness of carbon
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The hardness of carbon is not very great. 316L stainless steel has a Hardness Vickers (HV) of about 150-200 HV, the carbon resin matrix alone could be around 10–30. However, for watches forged carbon is used, that reaches 20 to 50 HV. Still not near stainless steel.
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This is why most high-end watches with carbon have other materials as well to protect the carbon case. Ceramic for instance, for a bezel, and titanium components for crown and guards.
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Some brands mix carbon with other materials. Panerai for instance has created Carbotech, which is a mix of carbon fiber and polymer. All special treatment and mix processes makes Carbotech remarkable more hard than carbon. Carbotech has a Hardness Vickers of about 190 HV to 250 HV.
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Compare case materials on the Hardness Vickers scale (from hard to hardest):
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| Carbon | 20-50 HV |
| Platinum | 40 HV (950 platinum: 80-135 HV) |
| Silver | 70-90 HV |
| Bronze | 60-150 HV (100-200 HV treated) |
| Aluminium | 120-200 HV |
| Gold | 120-200 HV (18k or 14k) |
| Palladium | 150-200 HV |
| White gold | 150-250 HV |
| Stainless steel | 150-250 HV (special 1200 HV) |
| Titanium | 150-200 HV (grade 2) / 300-400 HV (grade 5) |
| Ceramic | 1200-1400 HV (1500-2000 for alumina) |
| Sapphire | 2000-2300 HV |
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Watches from carbon
Out of four new military inspired divers this is the GMT model, the Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro GMT Navy SEALs Carbotech
The Hublot Big Bang Unico Hublot Sailing Team goes back to Hublot’s maritime roots that started in 2004 with the Hublot Subaquaneus
The beloved and criticized PRX is now available as the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Forged Carbon. Beloved for the attractive price of course
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date is massive, like a true Royal Oak, but light
Ask a motorbike fan about a monster on two wheel and he/she/it is going to tell you about the Ducati Panigale V4 SP2 30° Anniversario 916
These two Perrelet Turbine Ice Blue models in carbon and titanium are inspired by the highest gravity dam in the world
Another Panerai dedicated to yacht racing is the Panerai Submersible Luna Rossa Carbotech, 1 out of 11 models linked to the Luna Rossa team
The Jacob & Co. Epic X Chrono 47 mm Carbon Forged Poker is a new addition to the 47-millimeter chronograph collection of JC
For the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago the Swiss brand presents the Perrelet Turbine Splash with some Jackson Pollock-like paint splatter