The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph Lamborghini Verde Mantis is inspired by Lambo’s SC63 Le Mans 2024 car
Carbon
Carbon, symbolized by ‘C’ on the periodic table, and atomic number 6, is a fundamental element renowned for its versatility. In general, it serves as a cornerstone for life and is widely abundant throughout the universe.
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What makes it unique is its remarkable bonding capability with other elements, particularly itself, leading to the formation of diverse structures. In the realm of watches, it also plays a fascinating role.
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Carbon and watchmaking
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Carbon finds its way into watchmaking through various forms, each offering distinct properties. Carbon fiber, for instance, known for its lightweight and robust nature, is often used in crafting watch cases and straps, enhancing durability without compromising style.
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Another form, carbon nanotubes, with their exceptional strength and conductivity, contributes to the development of advanced watch technologies, such as in creating highly precise sensors or improving battery performance.
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Lightness is the most important aspect
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Sure, the robustness is an important aspect to use carbon for the case of a watch. But lightness is an even more important aspect. Big and bold watches, often with a lot of tech inside, can be very heavy. The use of carbon helps to reduce weight.
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In essence, in watchmaking it encapsulates both tradition and progress, blending craftsmanship with cutting-edge innovation. Its significance underscores the technical advancements within the industry.
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Hardness of carbon
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The hardness of carbon is not very great. 316L stainless steel has a Hardness Vickers (HV) of about 150-200 HV, the carbon resin matrix alone could be around 10–30. However, for watches forged carbon is used, that reaches 20 to 50 HV. Still not near stainless steel.
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This is why most high-end watches with carbon have other materials as well to protect the carbon case. Ceramic for instance, for a bezel, and titanium components for crown and guards.
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Some brands mix carbon with other materials. Panerai for instance has created Carbotech, which is a mix of carbon fiber and polymer. All special treatment and mix processes makes Carbotech remarkable more hard than carbon. Carbotech has a Hardness Vickers of about 190 HV to 250 HV.
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Compare case materials on the Hardness Vickers scale (from hard to hardest):
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Carbon | 20-50 HV |
Platinum | 40 HV (950 platinum: 80-135 HV) |
Silver | 70-90 HV |
Bronze | 60-150 HV (100-200 HV treated) |
Aluminium | 120-200 HV |
Gold | 120-200 HV (18k or 14k) |
Palladium | 150-200 HV |
White gold | 150-250 HV |
Stainless steel | 150-250 HV (special 1200 HV) |
Titanium | 150-200 HV (grade 2) / 300-400 HV (grade 5) |
Ceramic | 1200-1400 HV (1500-2000 for alumina) |
Sapphire | 2000-2300 HV |
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Watches from carbon
Super light and super shock-resistant is what makes the Richard Mille RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon Rafael Nadal unique
The Ulysse Nardin Diver x Skeleton Ops is one of two new tough looking green divers of UN, here with an open-worked dial and skeletonized parts
The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Ops is one out of two new dark green divers the Swiss brand launches. With serious touches of recycled materials
The full Panerai signature design packed in carbon; this is the Panerai Submersible Tourbillon GMT Luna Rossa Experience Edition
The Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono Cycling Edition is kind of inspired by a Road Cycling Team that is sponsored by the Swiss brand
The MB&F HM8 Mark 2 Blue is the newest incarnation of the HM8 Mark 2 series after a representation of two editions last year
RD’s love for fast Italian cars named Lamborghini shows again with this Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Monobalancier Huracan Sterrato
The Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Street Art comes in four versions and has a splashy design inspired by street-art painting. All four limited to 10 pieces
The Urwerk UR-100V LightSpeed is the latest addition to the UR-100V collection. It features a rather unusual 3D planetarium