This new Jaquet Droz Charming Bird – the art of nature at its peak, its official name, has a bird in it. Really. Would a grown-up man buy this?
Gold is a highly valued material in watchmaking, prized for its luxurious appeal and versatility. In watches, gold can be used in various forms, such as solid gold, gold-plated, or gold-filled. Solid gold watches, often made of 18-karat (75% pure gold) or 14-karat gold, are prestigious and sought-after due to their intrinsic value and luster.
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Gold plating, where a thin layer of gold is applied to a base metal, is a more affordable way to achieve a gold finish. Gold-filled watches, on the other hand, have a thicker layer of gold bonded to the metal, offering better durability than gold plating. Rose gold, a blend of gold and copper, has become particularly popular in modern watches for its unique pinkish hue.
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Use and hardness of gold
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Gold is used not only for cases but also for components like bezels, bracelets, and even watch movements in some luxury pieces. It adds weight, value, and aesthetic appeal, making gold watches symbols of wealth, craftsmanship, and style.
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The Hardness Vickers for gold varies. 24 carats, not often used for watches, has hardness of 60 to 80 HV. The more used 18-carat gold has a hardness of about 120 to 200 HV, and 14-carat gold reaches 150 to 200 HV. White gold is a little harder in general.
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Compare case materials on the Hardness Vickers scale (from hard to hardest):
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| Carbon | 20-50 HV |
| Platinum | 40 HV (950 platinum: 80-135 HV) |
| Silver | 70-90 HV |
| Bronze | 60-150 HV (100-200 HV treated) |
| Aluminium | 120-200 HV |
| Gold | 120-200 HV (18k or 14k) |
| Palladium | 150-200 HV |
| White gold | 150-250 HV |
| Stainless steel | 150-250 HV (special 1200 HV) |
| Titanium | 150-200 HV (grade 2) / 300-400 HV (grade 5) |
| Ceramic | 1200-1400 HV (1500-2000 for alumina) |
| Sapphire | 2000-2300 HV |
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Watches in gold, either yellow, rose or just gold gold (not gold plated)
Luminor Due is Panerai’s new Luminor collection and the Panerai Luminor Due 3 Days Automatic is one of the two new models
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