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Gold

Gold is a highly valued material in watchmaking, prized for its luxurious appeal and versatility. In watches, gold can be used in various forms, such as solid gold, gold-plated, or gold-filled. Solid gold watches, often made of 18-karat (75% pure gold) or 14-karat gold, are prestigious and sought-after due to their intrinsic value and luster.

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Gold plating, where a thin layer of gold is applied to a base metal, is a more affordable way to achieve a gold finish. Gold-filled watches, on the other hand, have a thicker layer of gold bonded to the metal, offering better durability than gold plating. Rose gold, a blend of gold and copper, has become particularly popular in modern watches for its unique pinkish hue.

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Use and hardness of gold

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Gold is used not only for cases but also for components like bezels, bracelets, and even watch movements in some luxury pieces. It adds weight, value, and aesthetic appeal, making gold watches symbols of wealth, craftsmanship, and style.

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The Hardness Vickers for gold varies. 24 carats, not often used for watches, has hardness of 60 to 80 HV. The more used 18-carat gold has a hardness of about 120 to 200 HV, and 14-carat gold reaches 150 to 200 HV. White gold is a little harder in general.

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Compare case materials on the Hardness Vickers scale (from hard to hardest):

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Carbon 20-50 HV
Platinum 40 HV (950 platinum: 80-135 HV)
Silver 70-90 HV
Bronze 60-150 HV (100-200 HV treated)
Aluminium 120-200 HV
Gold 120-200 HV (18k or 14k)
Palladium 150-200 HV
White gold 150-250 HV
Stainless steel 150-250 HV (special 1200 HV)
Titanium 150-200 HV (grade 2) / 300-400 HV (grade 5)
Ceramic 1200-1400 HV (1500-2000 for alumina)
Sapphire 2000-2300 HV

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Watches in gold, either yellow, rose or just gold gold (not gold plated)

Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542 - the first ever GMT-Master
Rolex

The first ever: Rolex GMT-Master (is the ref. 6542 from 1954)

by YWH Team 13 July 2024
by YWH Team

The first Rolex GMT-Master is the ref. 6542 from 1954, although Rolex speaks about 1955. One of the most iconic watches of all time

Stowa Flieger Olympic in bronze, silver and gold
Stowa

Stowa Flieger Olympic in bronze, silver and gold

by YWH Team 12 July 2024
by YWH Team

A new model, in three versions, this is the Stowa Flieger Olympic in bronze, silver and gold. A nod to the medals of the Olympic Games

Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge 5345 ref. 5345BR/1S/5XU
Breguet

Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge 5345

by YWH Team 9 July 2024
by YWH Team

This Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge 5345 is a tribute to the founder of the brand, Abraham-Louis Breguet

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 41 mm in steel, ceramic and gold
Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 41 mm in steel, ceramic and gold

by YWH Team 5 July 2024
by YWH Team

Three new references for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 41 mm, which brings the total to 19

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5269R-001
Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5269R

by YWH Team 5 July 2024
by YWH Team

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5269R is now available without gems, still in a subtle size and still with a quartz movement

Panerai Luminor Quaranta BiTempo Goldtech ref. PAM01641
Panerai

Panerai Luminor Quaranta BiTempo Goldtech

by YWH Team 5 July 2024
by YWH Team

The Panerai Luminor Quaranta BiTempo Goldtech is Italian for a 40-millimeter (Quaranta) GMT (BiTempo) from a special gold (Goldtech)

Jaquet Droz Tourbillon Skelet Red Gold - Bon Jovi ref. J0135230061
Jaquet Droz

Jaquet Droz Tourbillon Skelet Red Gold – Bon Jovi

by YWH Team 3 July 2024
by YWH Team

A tribute, especially created for a rock band, the Jaquet Droz Tourbillon Skelet Red Gold – Bon Jovi shines on the wrist of Jon himself

Frederique Constant Highlife Chronograph Automatic Blue/Silver & Silver/Green ref. FC-391SGR4NH6 & FC-391NS4NH4
Frederique Constant

Frederique Constant Highlife Chronograph Automatic Blue/Silver & Silver/Green

by YWH Team 30 June 2024
by YWH Team

Some new colors for the Frederique Constant Highlife Chronograph Automatic, now in available in blue/silver or silver/green

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 Green Dial ref. Q52824E1
Jaeger-LeCoultre

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 Green Dial

by YWH Team 29 June 2024
by YWH Team

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 Green Dial is a new world timer with an orbiting tourbillon in green enamel

Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono Grey Steel & Gold ref. BR05C-RTH-STPG
Bell & Ross

Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono Grey Steel & Gold

by YWH Team 29 June 2024
by YWH Team

The Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono Grey Steel & Gold is a bi-material timepiece that combines two metals, steel and rose gold

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