Two new Breitlings to celebrate 60 years of the Superocean model; this is the Breitling Superocean Heritage II Chronographe
Stainless steel is widely used in watches due to its durability and corrosion resistance. There are some variants that differ in quality and properties. The hardness is often indicated in HV (Hardness Vickers).
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This hardness value is calculated based on the force applied and the surface area of the indentation. The higher the HV number, the harder the material is, indicating greater resistance to deformation and scratching.
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Different stainless steel grades
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316L is the most common for watches, offering corrosion resistance, particularly in saltwater. It is used by most brands. It has a Vickers hardness of around 150-200 HV.
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Then there is 904L stainless steel which is a high-end alloy used primarily by Rolex. It’s more corrosion-resistant and durable than 316L but harder to machine. This has a Vickers hardness of approximately 200-250 HV.
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Another variant is 440C, known for its hardness and wear resistance, though less corrosion-resistant. It’s often used in watch components that require high strength. It has with a Vickers hardness ranging from 550-700 HV.
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Cheaper stainless steel and steel for parts
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Next is 304, a cost-effective option with good workability and decent corrosion resistance, typically found in budget watches. For the inside of a watch there is 17-4 PH which is a strong, precipitation-hardened alloy. It is used in high-performance watch components like screws and movement parts.
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A less common due to its magnetic properties and lower corrosion resistance is 430, but it offers good formability.
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Lastly we mention carbonitrided stainless steel, although there are more variants. This carbonitrided treated steel variant is hardened and more scratch-resistant, used in high-end watches for durability.
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The hardest stainless steel we have seen so far is introduced by Hanhart in 2024, and called HD12. Which is carbon diffused into stainless steel in a surface hardening process, and then topped off with a transparent hard coating (PVD). The result is a Vickers hardness of 1,200.
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Just as a reference, the Vickers hardness of diamond, the hardest natural material on Earth, is 7,000 to 10,000 HV. Which is also indicated as 70 GPa to 100 GPa (Gigapascals).
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Compare case materials on the Hardness Vickers scale (from hard to hardest):
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| Carbon | 20-50 HV |
| Platinum | 40 HV (950 platinum: 80-135 HV) |
| Silver | 70-90 HV |
| Bronze | 60-150 HV (100-200 HV treated) |
| Aluminium | 120-200 HV |
| Gold | 120-200 HV (18k or 14k) |
| Palladium | 150-200 HV |
| White gold | 150-250 HV |
| Stainless steel | 150-250 HV (special 1200 HV) |
| Titanium | 150-200 HV (grade 2) / 300-400 HV (grade 5) |
| Ceramic | 1200-1400 HV (1500-2000 for alumina) |
| Sapphire | 2000-2300 HV |
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Stainless steel watches
The Breitling Superocean Heritage II still looks like the first Breitling Superocean diver from 1957. This new one has a Tudor movement
The Certina DS Podium Chronograph Lap Timer Racing Edition celebrates the partnership with the ADAC GT Masters, a cool German race cup
This sporty Patek Philippe Complications Ref. 5960/1A-010 Annual Calendar Chronograph is Patek’s entry-level chronograph
The moon phase complication of this Christiaan van der Klaauw Real Moon Joure Horizon is so accurate it deviates one day in 11,000 years
A new version of the Black Day: this is the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Steel available with aged leather strap or polished steel bracelet
TAG Heuer has revived the Heuer Autavia resulting into this TAG Heuer Autavia 2017. It has become a little bit larger and more modern
The Nomos Club Campus is an entry-level hand-wound mechanical watch that comes with a 36-millimeter or 38.5-millimeter case
The IWC Ingenieur Chronograph comes in three versions and is based on limited editions from 2016. However, the new one is not limited
The Tissot Ballade Powermatic 80 looks a lot like the Chemin des Tourelles, a bit boring, is COSC certified and offers great value for money