Universal Genève Polerouter SAS Tribute (and relaunch of the brand)

Quick specs Universal Genève Polerouter SAS Tribute
Price: to be auctioned (RU6910, black dial), the other two models are for the Heritage Department
Size: 35 mm
Reference:
AU6910 (silver dial)
JU6910 (blue dial)
RU6910 (black dial) – limited to 1 piece each

This Universal Genève Polerouter SAS Tribute pilot watch is the result of a number of events. The first: in December 2023 the Partners Group took over the brand name Universal Genève. They bought it from Stelux Holdings, a holding company from Hong Kong that was the owner of the brand since 1989.

Second: this Partners Group is a Swiss private investment firm to which Breitling belongs, so Universal Genève will become Breitling’s sister brand. Third: now under the wings of Breitling the company will relaunch in 2026, and for that reason, they already made three watches.

Short History of Universal Genève

Universal Genève was founded in 1894 in Le Locle, Switzerland, and became a prestigious watch brand celebrated for its innovation, craftsmanship, and timeless designs. The brand gained renown for its pioneering contributions to chronograph development and luxury watches that combined technical sophistication with elegant aesthetics.

Known as a “watchmaker’s watchmaker,” Universal Genève became synonymous with Swiss excellence, blending traditional watchmaking techniques with avant-garde creativity. They even nested themselves near brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe and developed some renewed models.

Most Popular Universal Genève Models

The most popular models from the brand are the Compax (first named Compur) chronographs from the 1930s. An early chronograph that is known for its robustness and precision. This model was followed by the Tri-Compax chronograph in the 1940s. A multi-scale chronograph with tachymeter and telemeter scales, also available with a triple calendar with a moon phase complication.

In the 1950s the Universal Genève Polerouter pilot watch was launched with a sleek, modern design, by Gérald Genta. The man who later designed many more iconic watches for other brands, like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. This Polerouter has the first micro-rotor movement (Microtor), the caliber 215, introduced in 1955. In the 1960s and 1970s, the brand introduced the Golden Shadow and White Shadow models.

Then the brand was struck by the quartz crisis and ended in the hands of the aforementioned Stelux Holdings. They tried to keep the brand alive by relaunching it a couple of times. Not very successful and they ended production or operation around 2018. And now, under the umbrella of Breitling, it is ready for a new beginning, starting with a tribute to the Universal Genève Polerouter.

The new Universal Genève Polerouter

Universal Genève’s Polerouter SAS Tribute celebrates the 70^th anniversary of a groundbreaking Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS) flight over the North Pole. This limited-edition pilot pays homage to the original Polerouter, a timepiece designed to meet the specific needs of pilots navigating polar routes.

The Polerouter first appeared in 1954, created to commemorate SAS’s pioneering transpolar flights. These flights reduced travel time significantly by connecting Copenhagen and Los Angeles via a shorter route. Universal Genève collaborated with a young Gérald Genta, then just 23 years old, to design a watch that met the technical and environmental challenges faced by pilots.

Withstanding Polar Conditions (in the Air)

Polar routes brought pilots into regions with strong geomagnetic activity. The Earth’s magnetic field near the poles could interfere with both aircraft instruments and the internal components of wristwatches. So, the original Polerouter model featured an anti-magnetic movement. It also had to withstand extreme environmental conditions, including sub-zero temperatures, turbulence, and significant altitude changes. For that, the stainless steel case was very robust and it had thick domed crystal.

The later introduced Microtor movement performed consistently over long flights. And of course, pilots needed a clear and easily readable watch, especially under low-light conditions in polar regions. Thus, the design of the dial is very clean, with strong contrasting hands. The size and overall design were also comfortable for extended wear. By the late 1950s, the Polerouter became a classic, moving beyond its SAS origins to become a symbol of precision watchmaking.

Design and Materials of the Tribute Polerouter

The Tribute Polerouter SAS Tribute comes in three variations, each crafted with premium materials. There is a stainless steel version with a silver dial (ref. AU6910), and a white gold version with a vivid blue dial (ref. JU6910). The third variant is a red gold model (ref. RU6910) with a black dial.

All three watches have the modern and historic SAS logos on the dial. And they all retain their historical identity while incorporating modern elements such as guillochéd inner bezels for added brilliance.

The Microtor Movement: A Legacy of Innovation

The Universal Genève Polerouter SAS Tribute houses the Microtor caliber 1-69, a revolutionary movement first introduced in the late 1950s. This self-winding mechanical movement positions the rotor between the plate and bridges, achieving an ultra-thin profile. The result is a robust yet sleek design that provides a 57-hour power reserve.

This movement is not the original one of the standard Polerouter but it was used for the Polerouter Sub model. A diver that was developed after the Polerouter and launched in the 1960s, together with this then-new caliber 1-69. Which was a follow-up of the calibers 138 SS, 215, 218 series and 68 series that were used for the standard Polerouter.

Availability of the Universal Genève Polerouter SAS Tribute

The white gold version features a handcrafted white gold bracelet designed by Laurent Jolliet, a renowned chain maker in Switzerland. The other two models come with calfskin leather straps, ensuring both comfort and durability. The red gold model pairs its gold case with a matching red gold pin buckle, while the stainless-steel version includes a steel pin buckle.

If you want to buy one, you only have one chance. You can try to buy the one-off white gold version at an auction to be held in May 2025 by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo. The other two models are not for sale or auction and will be kept in Universal Genève’s Heritage Department at their service center in Meyrin, Switzerland.

Wait Until 2026 or Buy a Vintage Universal Genève

This means you either have to wait until 2026 to see with what new models the brand comes up, or you buy a vintage one for prices between 800 and 12,000. So, this “first launch” might be a teaser to see if collectors and watch enthusiasts are ready for a new Polerouter. The idea of a new watch with an old movement is cool, a brand like DuBois and Fils does that as well.

On the other hand, it is good to move on, leaning a bit on your past, but create new, surprising, and appealing models with historical references. A new Microtor movement for instance, in a case with a more modern size. And a new Compax and Tri-Compax would be great as well. As long as the prices are fair. The results of the recently relaunched brand Favre Leuba can be an indication…

Technical data and specifications of the Universal Genève Polerouter SAS Tribute

Reference number: AU6910 (silver dial) JU6910 (blue dial) RU6910 (black dial) – limited to 1 piece each

Movement: Universal Genève Microtor caliber 1-69 from the 1960s | Automatic | Diameter: 28.5 mm | Thickness: 4.75 mm | Frequency: 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz) | Micro-rotor within the movement plate | Hours, minutes, seconds | Power reserve: 57 hours

Case and dial: 35 mm | Stainless steel, 18k white gold or red gold | Thickness: 9.95 mm | Cambered sapphire, glare-proofed both sides| Silver colored or gold inner bezel | Silver, blue or black dial | 18k red-gold-plated or rhodium-plated hands | Steel, 18k white gold or red gold, non-screw-locked crown with two gaskets | Polished steel, white gold or red gold screwed-in case back with engravings | Water resistance: 5 ATM / 5 bar / 50 meters / 165 feet

Strap: Black calfskin leather strap with stainless-steel pin buckle | 18k white gold bracelet with folding clasp handcrafted by Laurent Jolliet | Black calfskin leather strap with 18k red gold pin buckle

Price Universal Genève Polerouter SAS Tribute: to be auctioned (RU6910, black dial), the other two models are for the Heritage Department

Website: www.universalgeneve.com